Recently, Japanese work pants called “Nikkapokka” have been gaining attention in the fashion scenes of Paris and New York.
At a workwear specialty store in Tokyo, foreign tourists are buying Nikkapokka, which is pretty surprising.
They call these pants “Ninja Style Pants” and get super excited while purchasing them.
But from a Japanese perspective, it’s like “Wait, you’re wearing those as fashion?”
Today, let’s dig into why Nikkapokka is so popular overseas and why it’s hard to wear in Japan.
Why Does It Resonate with Fashion-Conscious People?
Pants with the same silhouette seen on Tokyo construction sites are appearing on Parisian haute couture runways.
New York, London, Berlin, Seoul.
Interest in Japanese workwear is growing in fashion cities around the world.
So why are fashion-conscious people attracted to Nikkapokka?
First, it’s the unique silhouette. That form where the area below the knee is tightly cinched while the thigh to knee area balloons out loosely is unlike any other pants.
Now that street fashion has reached a saturation point, for people looking for items that are “nobody’s wearing them, but they’re functional and cool,” this hits the spot perfectly.
Next, the interest for Japanese culture. Overseas, Japanese images like “ninja,” “samurai,” and “craftsmen” are incredibly cool.
Nikkapokka appears as an item that embodies traditional Japanese craftsmanship culture. Foreign tourists actually evaluate it as “Ninja Style.”
Furthermore, the combination of functionality and story. In the fashion industry, it’s an era where it’s important for items to have background and story, not just good looks.
Nikkapokka is authentic workwear with over 100 years of history. Its functionality and tradition are being evaluated as “authentic” in the world of high fashion.
Finally, a tool for self-expression. Fashion enthusiasts overseas are hungry to create styles different from others. Personally, this is something I want to learn from.
Nikkapokka catches the eye instantly with its distinctive silhouette. It becomes a conversation starter like “What’s that?” and becomes a powerful weapon for establishing your own style.
The History of Nikkapokka and Its Position as Workwear
Let me briefly explain the history of Nikkapokka.
The origin of these pants is actually 19th century Europe. Originally called “knickerbockers,” they were equestrian pants designed to be easier to move in by cinching below the knee.
They came to Japan and became established as workwear for scaffolding workers and construction sites from the Taisho to early Showa period.
Why is it excellent as workwear? There are several reasons.
First, because the area below the knee is cinched, the hem doesn’t get caught even during high-altitude work on unstable footing. It’s highly safe.
Next, because the thigh area is loose, movements like squatting or opening your legs wide are incredibly easy. For craftsmen doing physical labor all day, this ease of movement is important.
Furthermore, because an air layer is created between the fabric and body, it’s cool in summer and warm in winter. It balances breathability and heat retention.
In Japan, it’s especially recognized as iconic clothing for scaffolding workers doing high-altitude work. When you see a craftsman wearing Nikkapokka with that billowing silhouette on site, you think “That’s a professional worker.”
However, recently even on Japanese construction sites, craftsmen wearing Nikkapokka seem to be decreasing. Many craftsmen are shifting to cargo pants made of more flexible stretch materials.
Despite that, the fact that it’s gaining attention as a fashion item overseas must be surprising even to Japanese craftsmen.
In Japan, Young People Don’t Wear Them Unless They’re Craftsmen
Let me be honest here. Even from a Japanese perspective, Nikkapokka is normally cool.
That distinctive silhouette, functional beauty, and presence that evokes the spirit of craftsmanship. Objectively speaking, I think it’s an incredibly cool item.
So why don’t young Japanese people wear them as fashion unless they’re craftsmen?
The reason lies in Japan’s unique cultural background. Scaffolding workers and construction site craftsmen have an image in Japan of being “a profession with many rowdy people.”
Of course, this is prejudice, and many craftsmen are wonderful people seriously honing their skills. But as a general public perception, that recognition exists as fact.
So when someone who’s not a craftsman wears Nikkapokka in the city as fashion, there’s an atmosphere like “What are you trying to show off?” or “Isn’t it weird to wear that when you’re not even a craftsman?”
From the perspective of craftsmen actually working hard on construction sites, they might have mixed feelings seeing someone wearing them for fashion purposes.
Furthermore, Japan has a culture of “the nail that sticks out gets hammered down.” When you do something different from others, there’s a risk of being looked at strangely by those around you.
Items with such strong individuality like Nikkapokka have quite a high hurdle in Japan’s fashion scene.
Overseas, especially in Western countries, there’s a culture where individualistic fashion is welcomed. The value system of “different from others = cool.”
That’s why items like Nikkapokka that are “nobody’s wearing them but they’re cool” are readily accepted.
In the end, the reason Nikkapokka is hard to wear in Japan isn’t a problem with the item itself, but largely due to Japan’s social and cultural background.
I’m secretly hoping it gets reverse imported after becoming popular overseas lol.
About Tabi
What’s gaining attention overseas along with Nikkapokka is the Japanese “tabi,” especially work-use “tabi boots.”
To be honest, if you ask me whether tabi are cool, it’s kind of ambiguous. But they’re not uncool either.
That design where the big toe is separated with a focus on functionality is so unique that it transcends the scale of “cool/uncool.”
However, seeing someone wearing them in the city, there might still be a bit of a sense of incongruity. You’d think “Oh, is that a craftsman?”
I’ve actually worn tabi for work, and the comfort was excellent.
Because the big toe is separated, you can brace yourself incredibly well. They’re perfect for high-altitude work or work in unstable places.
But walking long distances in the city is a different story. With tabi, the sensation of the ground is transmitted directly to the soles of your feet.
On work sites, this becomes an advantage of “being able to sense the ground conditions,” but if you walk for hours on asphalt or concrete, I think the soles of your feet would start hurting.
There’s not much cushioning, so honestly they’re not suited for everyday use.
If You’re Pairing with Nikkapokka, Here Are Some Shoe Recommendations
Personally, I think the combination of Nikkapokka + logger boots is the coolest.
Logger boots are sturdy work boots originally worn by lumberjacks. They’re characterized by a chunky, masculine design.
The voluminous silhouette of Nikkapokka and the substantial feel of logger boots are a perfect match.
Let me suggest some other shoes that would go well with Nikkapokka.
First, classic work boots like Red Wing’s Iron Ranger or Beckman. These have just the right amount of volume and enhance the silhouette of Nikkapokka.
Next, trekking boots like Danner Light or Mountain Light. The outdoorsy vibe matches the workwear feel of Nikkapokka.
This might be a bit unexpected, but I think Dr. Martens 8-hole or 10-hole boots work too. Adding punk and street elements creates an interesting style.
Also, tactical boots (military boot style) might work. They have good compatibility with the military feel of Nikkapokka.
On the flip side, pairing with sneakers or low-cut shoes makes it hard to achieve balance. They get overwhelmed by the volume of Nikkapokka.
After all, I think boot-type shoes with some height and volume match best with Nikkapokka.
Summary
The reasons Nikkapokka is booming overseas are its unique silhouette, functionality and story, and its appeal as a tool for self-expression.
On the other hand, in Japan, the social and cultural background makes it quite a high hurdle for non-craftsmen to wear.
But there’s something that fashion enthusiasts overseas have taught us. That is, “cool things are cool.”
Wearing something you purely think “this is nice” without worrying about cultural background or what others think. Maybe we Japanese should learn from this free way of enjoying fashion too.
If you want to try wearing Nikkapokka, please give it a shot.
Especially overseas, you’ll definitely get attention as “someone wearing cool pants from Japan.”
